Use your RSS feed program on your web browser to get updates when new postings are made to this blog.
Get RSS
|
|
|
12/01/2009
|
 |
|
12/01/2009
|
|
|
12/01/2009
|
|
|
12/01/2009
|
|
|
12/01/2009
|
|
|
|
|
Description:
If you're looking for a quiet country getaway with stunning vistas, ancient and less-than ancient historical sites, and fabulous food, have I got the place for you!
|
|
|
|
 |
In October, 2009, Planet Purl traveled to the northwestern coast of France for a week of R&R (and yarn shopping) in Brittany. Home to some of the world's most awe-inspring sites, from the standing stones at Carnac to the medieval villages and castles that dot the countryside, to the wonder of Mont St. Michel, we think this may have been our best vacation ever. And being who we are, we also took a little time to track down French yarn for you, too. So pour yourself a glass of French wine and join us on a mini-tour of the beautiful French countryside.
If you're headed to Brittany, you'll have a choice of hotel accomodations in the largest towns. But if it's country quiet you want, as well as convenience and space to strech out, maybe light the fire and enjoy the end of your day, you definitely want to rent a "gite." Many of the farms in Brittany have built (or restored) outbuildings into rental cottages, fully outfitted with kitchens and usually laundry rooms. Rent one for the week -- or two if you're that lucky -- and use it as a base of operations for your tour. We stayed at La Julerie (www.lajulerie-gites.com) just outside the village of Corseul.
You'll also need a rental car and I highly recommend a nav system. Although the roads are extremely well marked, Brittany also is a maze of little country backroads that will make you crazy unless you have a perfect sense of direction. The nav system saved us from driving in circles many a time.
And unless you're fluent in French, I recommend you bring a good compact French dictionary. I had one on my iphone and used it quite a few times even though I speak enough French to get by in most situations. And of course, print Planet Purl's French Knitting Dictionary to take to the shops with you, just in case. You can use it to point, if necessary. No reason a little thing like language should keep you from buying yarn, right?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Dinan
Widely voted Brittany's most beautiful medieval town, Dinan is a "must" stop for anyone visiting Brittany. A market town, if your schedule allows, visit on a Thursday morning while the market is in full swing.
The attraction here is the old town, with it's beatiful (and crooked) half-timbered buildings. Of little strategic value during World War II, Dinan escaped the bombs and is beautifully intact. There are plenty of places to sit and people watch, while enjoying traditional Breton galettes. And don't forget to order up some cider, another Breton specialty. |
| 
 | Etamine
Right in the center of the old town, just off the main square and within a stone's throw of some tasty Breton crepes, is the charming knitting shop Etamine. Stocked nearly to the ceiling with Bergere de France and Schachenmyer yarns, I finally slaked my Beregere de France thirst and loaded up on some chunky chenille for an upcoming PurlQueen Patterns design inspired by a cape I saw in Paris at the fabulous Madeleine Vionnet exhibit at the Museum of Textiles and Fashion.
The ladies in the shop were very helpful and friendly. The shop was quite busy with locals stocking up on needlework supplies and the place just had such a happy feeling to it. Good thing, since I try not to buy yarn that might have "unhappy cooties" on it. So I bought 20 balls of chenille, gratefully accepting the free stand-up/fold up fabric yarn bin offered by the owner, and knew it had been a really good day!
Etamine
5 Rue de la Mittrie
22100 Dinan
02.96.87.72.92 | | | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| St. Malo
The walled city on the coast at the mouth of the Rance River, St. Malo was once home to the infamous corsairs, the French privateers and pirates. The town is over 2000 years old and has been at the center of battles between France and England for almost that long.
Due to its strategic location, it suffered significant damage during World War II. The residents rebuilt after the war, using the stones in the rubble.
St. Malo is a popular destination for tourists, especially from the UK, with a busy ferry terminal receiving guests form the UK year round.
While in St. Malo, eat the local oysters or feast on galettes -- the buckwheat crepes that are a Breton specialty. My favorite galette? Galettes Parmentier filled with sausages, sliced potatoes, emmental cheese, and topped with creme fraiche. Mmmmmmmmm! |
| 
| Phildar St. Malo
Across France, the French knitwear and yarn manufacturer Phildar has many company stores. There's one right on the main shopping street in St. Malo, outside the walled old town. The shop carries basically every yarn made by Phildar, along with Phildar's kits for scarves and other small accessories.
Phildar St. Malo
49, Rue Ville Pépin
35400 Saint Malo, France
02 99 81 22 70
www.phildar.fr
| | | | | | Mercerie d'Aujourd'hui
On the same shopping street, you'll find the charming needlework shop Mercerie d'Aujourd'hui. The shop carries knitting supplies as well as needlepoint and embroidery. For yarns, it carries Schachenmyer and Schoeller + Stahl, as well as lots of notions and buttons.
16, Rue Ville Pépin
35400 Saint Malo, France
02 99 81 61 69
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Mont St. Michel
There may be no more iconic picture than that of the abbey at Mont St. Michel, surrounded by the ocean at high tide, with the violent surf crashing around it. If you get anywhere west of Paris, you must visit Mont St. Michel in person. It's a site you'll never forget.
Legend has it that the archangel Michael appeared to St. Aubert and instructed him to build a church on the granite island. It wasn't until Michael burned a hole in Aubert's skull with his finger that Aubert took him seriously. The dedication to St Michael occurred on October 16, 708.
During the Revolution the abbey was closed and converted into a prison. Bowing to public pressure, the prison was finally closed in 1863, and the mount was declared a historic monument in 1874.
While visiting the Abbey, try to stop for lunch or a light meal at the Madame Poulard's restaurant on the mont itself. A fixture for more than a century, Madame Poulard's cookies and other gourmet goodies are found in shops all over Brittany. | | | 
| Matignon
Unless you're staying on the northern coast itself, you'll likely drive through Matignon on your way to and from Mont St. Michel. In addition to some lovely cafes, the town center boasts a yarn shop! Of course it was closed when we were there as part of an international plot to prevent me from buying yarn, I'm sure!
From what I could scope out through the windows, this shop has Katia, Katia and, yes, more Katia. Also a really nice selection of other needlework and a large selection of buttons.
Froufrou
17 place du Général de Gaulle
22550 Matignon
Téléphone : 02 96 41 16 28
Web : www.froufrou-mercerie.com
Hours: Tuesday - Saturday 9:30 - noon
and 2:30 - 7:00
Closed Sunday and Monday
| | | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Carnac
The world's largest formations of standing stones is in Carnac, with 3,000 stones still standing from the estimated 6,000 original stones. Most of the stones are in three fields that stretch along a single road. Unlike Stonehenge, here you can walk among the stones and ponder their existence while experiencing them close up. It's really an awe-inspiring site to stand in the middle of the field and see the stones running up and down the hills around you laid out in straight lines, and to know that for 6,000 years, humans have been drawn to that very place. It was a 2 hour drive from Corseul, and well worth it.
Carnac also has very lovely wide beaches with soft, pale sand. Perfect for a cool weather walk or for cooling off in the summer. All in all, a perfect day trip.
Well, except for the lack of yarn. But if you're coming from the Cotes D'armor part of Brittany like we were, you can stop halfway on your way home and remedy that situation at Pontivy, up next on our Brittany tour.
| | | 
 | Pontivy
About half-way between Carnac and Dinan, Pontivy is a gem of a town where the middle ages meets Napolean. Part of the town is dominated by the medieval castle of the Duc de Rohan, the other was laid out in perfect squares by Napolean when he decided the town was the perfect location for his base of operations.
The castle Rohan is an imposing dark stone edifice that is open to the public. It is unfurnished, but the structure itself is beautiful, with carved and painted fireplaces and some really nice panoramic views. The day we were there, the lady working the ticket desk was so excited that American tourists had stopped by, she kept checking on us and asking about our lives in America. And for those in need of a yarn fix, a few blocks down on the same street is a lovely little yarn shop. We were in Pontivy on a Sunday so the shop was closed, but I risked more than few stares from passing locals as I peered through the windows to check out the stock for you.
We'd been looking for Bergere de France yarn and of course, we found it here, while the store was closed! They also carry Schoeller & Stahl, ribbons, buttons, and a pretty nice assortment of accessories. If you have a chance to visit, let us know what you think?
Mercerie Pampille
101 Rue General de Gaulle
Pontivy 56300
02 97 25 65 39
Hours:
Mon: 2-7
Tues - Sat: 9:45 - noon and 2-7
Closed Sunday | | | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Favorites
Del.icio.us
Digg
Furl
Magnolia
StumbleUpon
Google
Yahoo
Technorati
BlinkList
Facebook