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"Travel Blog: Paris"
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Author:  planetpurl
Description:
The adventures of a yarn addict in Paris in desperate need of a fix.
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Paris Department Stores -- Yarn and Chocolate [Back to Blog]
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Paris – Les Grands Magasins.  If you want to yarn shop on a Monday in Paris, you pretty much have to head to the Grands Magasins (large stores).  Smaller stores are generally closed on Monday.  Paris has four big department stores – Le Bon Marche, Galleries Lafayette, BHV, and Printemps.  They are usually open from 10 a.m. to 7p.m., with later nights on Thursday.  They all have extended hours during the December holiday season.  As always, if time is an issue, call ahead.

 
 
Paris Department Store


Paris Department Store



Galleries Lafayette and Printemps

Galleries Lafayette and Printemps are almost next to each other on Boulevard Hausmann, a main shopping thoroughfare in the 9th arrondisement (district).  They are both huge stores housed in multiple buildings. 

There are many reasons to visit these stores, but yarn shopping, sadly, is not one of them.  Oh, they both sell yarn, but their yarn sections are really just tiny Phildar stores.  And if you were really planning to buy inexpensive acrylic yarn in Paris, you’d get a much better selection at one of the freestanding Phildar stores. 

At Printemps, yarn is on the 4th floor.  Don’t blink or you’ll miss it.  At the Galleries Lafayette, you’re looking for the department “loisirs creatifs” (creative leisure) for the craft department that includes other needlework as well. 

Both stores are worth a stop for other reasons, though.  Printemps has a fabulously decorated exterior.  Galleries Lafayette has the most gorgeous interior, with a stained glass ceiling and stunning, ornate plasterwork.  Galleries Lafayette also has a wonderful gourmet grocery that takes up pretty much an entire floor. 

You can get to the stores from a few metro stops – Hausmann, and  Chausee-D’Antin Lafayette are closest.  When you get off the train, looks for signs that say “Grands Magasins.”  The streets are also marked with directions to the “Grands Magasins.” 
 

 
Paris BHV

BHV

A store not worth a stop is BHV.  A regular craft section on the first floor and a "mercerie" section on the 4th, it only carries Phildar (what else?) in a building that architecturally is closest to a well-worn K-Mart. It has some nice trims and buttons, but not anything you won’t find at any of the other stores. 

If you don’t want to take our word for it, you can find the shop located in the 1st arrondissement at 52 Rue Rivoli (Metro: Hotel de Ville).  I’m not going to give you directions from there because I don’t want you to blame me if you decide to give it a look.  

 

 
Paris Le Bon Marche

Paris Le Bon Marche

Paris Le Bon Marche

Le Bon Marche

Le Bon Marche, on the other hand, has a full yarn department and “mercerie” (sewing and notions).  Beautifully laid out and lit, with very friendly sales staff, there’s something for every craft here – knitting, crocheting, cross-stitch, needlepoint, embroidery, quilting, rugmaking, plus gorgeous trims, tassels, braids, buttons and bows.  They also carry a large selection of needles and notions. 

You won’t get a true LYS experience here, but you’ll be dazzled by the selection.   Yarns include Anny Blatt, Bouton d’Or, Plassard, Debbie Bliss, Noro, Rowan, Austermann, Punto Su Punto, and of course Phildar.  Paris’ legendary yarn and trim shop – Le Droguerie – has a section of the third floor as well with a large selection of beads and sequins sold by weight.  If you need a Droguerie fix on Monday morning, this is where to head, since the shop itself is closed on Mondays until after lunch.  


Le Bon Marche is on rue Sevres, right across from the Babylon-Sevres metro stop.  The exits of the station are marked to exit to the store and once you’re above ground, it’ll be right in front of you.  The crafts department is on the 3rd floor.

 

Across the street from the main store is Bon Marche’s incredible gourmet food hall.  Whatever you eat before you fly home doesn’t have to be declared when you clear customs, thank goodness.  Yarn, plus wine, gourmet pastries and chocolate.  I could happily live here.

 
06/04/2008 5 comments | add comment
Boyzo | 07/18/2010
Here's the address of a store I found yesterday:
Coudre, Broder, Tricoter
215 rue Lafayette Paris 10ème.
Metro Louis Blanc

Coudre is to sew, Broder, to embroider and Tricoter to knit. The store has plenty of embroidery supplies and a lot of Pinguin knitting yarn. Closed August 2nd to 21st 2010.
Boyzo | 01/18/2010
Hi and thanks for these addresses. I live in Paris and took up knitting again recently so it was great to know where to go after working my way through the local "mercerie's" limited supply of yarns. I went to Huguet & Cie on Saturday afternoon but it was closed, so I pressed on to Cat'Laine which has a great choice and the owner is very fun and friendly. Worth noting that she opens at noon on a Saturday. Happy knitting! bon tricot !
Celia | 09/01/2008
I so loved reading your blog! Great Job!!
napiligal | 08/31/2008
I love this!! Thanks for a great blog. I'll be bookmarking this for a future trip to Paris (I hope someday). Thanks again!
Shabean | 06/30/2008
I loved reading these Blogs, I have never travelled out of Africa but if I do Paris is a place i would love to see just for the history and buildings and now you have made me interested in the shops as well. Living in Zimbabwe we dont see any craft stuff at the moment and all shops are empty of most food stuffs but i am going to add your stories to my dreams
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